BERLIN FASHION WEEK: PART 5

SOPOPULAR

By Josh Wu: Sopopular, I thought Sopopular’s menswear collection was the most experimental out of all the shows I’ve seen. The zippers were placed in unexpected locations on the garments and the garments exposed areas on the body that are normally concealed. The collection had an overall clean and urban look. The paint on the models’ faces and the tassels hanging from the clothing also gave it a tribal look. http://www.sopopular.net/

SAMMLER BERLIN

By Catilin Joo: Sammler Berlin.  This collection was mainly focused on the dazzling and flowing evening dresses and gowns. The overall shapes were very feminine and they brought out even more with her use of fabrics and elements. She linked some of the most distinct items like silk, leather,  and fur with some of the soft and light chiffon fabrics. However, nothing was overly done. Design was as simple as one single piece. Most of her dresses were loosely but well draped on the model as if they were somehow molded on the figure like a sculpture. Some of them had quite a nice loose and elongated fit falling softly from the shoulders, chest, and waist. Most of the features were as glamorous as themselves, but the bolero, which was either made of fur or thin soft looking leather on top made the look even more gorgeous. The color palette was not overwhelming the design, mostly mild color of both spring and summer like crimson, light grey, Indian pink, and opaque turquoise. Some of glittering fabrics contained beautiful floral patterns, too. http://www.sammler-berlin.com/

STEINROHNER

By Grace Haynes: The Steinrohner Fashion Show was a great show with many experimental pieces that captured my attention. From the various textures, vibrant and metallic colors I was very pleased when I left the show. The fashions were exhibited in presentation style for only a limited amount of time which made the show seem exclusive. There was an amazing abstract video playing in the back that artistically emulated the coral like structures that were on the fashions. It was pretty dark in the room while the lighting was on the model and the clothing. This was one of my favorite shows because of the experimentation and the vibrant red which was something I have not seen too much of in Berlin. The fashion designers were very young, and it was surprising to see how developed their work was considering their age. Overall, I enjoyed my experience at this show and would definitely follow their brand. http://www.steinrohner.com/

MARINA HOERMANSEDER

By Serena Jorif: Marina Hoermanseder is an Austrian women’s wear designer. She draws much of her inspiration from traditional Austro-Hungarian garments, most notably, 18th century orthopedic corsets. In her Spring | Summer 2016 show, she continued this theme with the belts and sculpted leather her line is known for. The color palette was bright with pastel greens, pinks, blues and violets. Prints were delicate and textures were light. The mix of ready-to-wear and over-the-top was perfect. Hoermanseder collaborated with Austrian architect and designer Julia Körner to create 3-D digitally printed corsets that molded to the model’s frames. It was a beautiful show held at the Kronprinzenpalais in Mitte. http://www.marinahoermanseder.com/

VEKTOR

By Erick Ikeda: Vektor – The venue was in front of the Brandenburger Gate. It felt more members only than the Ivanman venue as it was in plain view of the public in a huge Mercedes Benz tent. The venue was much larger with a huge runway. The air was buzzing until the lights dimmed and music exploded. A lot of the pieces were asymmetrical and played with a lot of negative space and layering of materials. The aesthetic and materials gave the pieces a “sporty” look. It inspired me to rethink and stirred my mind with what sportswear can and could look. http://www.fashion-week-berlin.com/en/calendar/single-event/view/vektor.html

WHITETAIL

By Mia Eum: Whitetail – The young Finnish brand, Whitetail, was my first show out of three for Berlin’s Mercedes-Benz fashion week. The brand was founded to promote fashion sustainably with simplicity being its focal design language. This was apparent in this summer’s collection which was mainly made out of what I would assume to be eco-friendly linen in neutral and earthy colors. Dresses and separates looked all very interchangeable and extremely wearable due to their straightforward and uncomplicated aesthetics. The color palette was a very basic neutral one with beiges and navy with touches of satin muted pink/peach thrown in. Although I appreciated the collection and design philosophy personally, I was not overly impressed in general perhaps due to expecting something much more inspirational and for lack of a better word, interesting, for a collection displayed in an art gallery-like presentation. All is not lost however with less conventional tailoring to create some beautiful drapery working well in contrast to the beige linen pieces. Also, some basic favorites such as simple boxy blazers and sleeveless tops would feature fun yet tasteful geometric cuts to add unexpected twists. The models standing still as we walked through the room was a convenient way for me to take a closer look at the pieces and construction, not to mention very easy for me take photos. A clever trick I learned was to shadow someone who looked like a professional photographer because some of the models will take notice and specifically pose for said photographer!

By Suyu: Whitetail – I will totally buy the garments if I saw them in the mall. On the other hand, it’s a little disappointing as a fashion show because I expect more from it. Great presentation in the park! The design is also very unique and diverse. The thing I like the most is how the designer handled the fabric: the exploration of woven, hand painted pattern and unconventional materials. http://whitetail.luxury/

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